Viaje al corazón de África Austral: Namibia, Botswana y Zimbabwe
África nos enamoró. El continente negro fue todo un descubrimiento, deslumbrante, mágico. Pilar, Iván, Berta, Nani, Susi, Jesús, Javi, Marina, Olga, Vicente, Luz, Silvia, Joselu, Charo, Rakel y Iosune.
Eran los primeros días de agosto y la gran expedición itakeña penetramos en el corazón de África Austral para emprender un recorrido inolvidable. Algunos desde Cape Twon, una coqueta ciudad de la costa sudafricana, a la sombra de la Table Mountain, otros directamente desde Windhoek, la capital de Namibia.
De la mano de James y Riley, nuestros eficientes y simpáticos guías sudáfricanos, y alomos de Novolu, el camión-bus que nos acompañaría durante todo el trayecto por tierras africanas, comenzamos una singular aventura que nos llevó primero al desierto de Namibia.
¿Soñamos o vivimos las mágicas dunasde Sossusvlei, que trocaban de color al nacer el sol,llenándonos el alma de arena roja y enamorándonos para siempre...?
Y Deadvlei. ¿Hay otro lugar en el mundo donde agua, sal y arena son capaces de mostrar la belleza de la naturaleza petrificada enun instante de vida?
Y más adelante, Spitzkoppe. Conozco un paraíso mágico donde el día arde al morir con el beso de la noche y la caricia de las montañas.
Por unos días abandonamos la magia del desierto para recalar en Swakopmund, extraña ciudad en la costa de Namibia que asemeja un rincón alemán surgido de pronto entre el mar y la arena.
Pero en cuanto la abandonamos, vuelve a envolvenos la sabana y los baobab salen a nuestro encuentro para recordarnos dóndeestamos: África.
Dejando atrás áridas planicies y árboles espantosamente secos,descubrimos en la frontera con Angola un oasis deslumbrante, Epopa Falls, donde el agua se multiplica, hiriendo la roca y venciéndola.
Muy cerca, visitamos un poblado himba. Pueblo ancestral, cuyas mujeres tiñen su cuerpo y su pelo de color arcilla y en el que las trenzas identifican el sexo de los niños. Siguen viviendo como sus antepasados, todavía no engullidos por el siglo XXI. Pero ¿hasta cuándo?
Tras un encuentro con guepardos domesticados y salvajes en la granja de Otjitotongwe, Novolu nos traslada raudo a la reserva de Etosha Park. Llegar a Etosha es como entrar en un documental de animales. Miramos con ojos muy abiertos los magníficos elefantes de paso lento, eterno, las elegantes y presumidas jirafas, los aparente poco fieros leones, los imponentes rinocerontes... ahí, a dos pasos, escuchando su lenguaje de cerca, anonadados.
Aún asistiremos por los alrededores a un encuentro inesperado y apasionante con dos manadas de elefantes y jirafas disputándose el agua de una charca en medio de la sabana. Y todavía tendremos tiempo para celebrar el cumpleaños de Joselu, el 15 de agosto, con exquisiteces traidas desde casa y mucho cachondeo grabado en vídeo.
Y llegamos a Ngepi, con su jaula anticocodrilos en la orilla. Con el corazón apenado abandonamos Namibia para adentrarnos en Botswana, donde nos esperan las aguas pantanosas del delta del Okavango, surcándolas en frágiles mokoros, arrullados por nenúfares blancos y espigas multicolor, conlas sombras de los hipopótamos navegando bajos los canales de tierra blanda y negruzca que se pega a las uñas comocarbón.
En torno al fuego y a la luz del día, canciones y danzas de aquí y de allá, pues nada mejor que la música para conectar por encima de idiomas y culturas.
Aún quedaba Chobe y el río Zambeze, elefantes por doquier, cocodrilos dormitando en las orillas e hipopótamos bostezando en el agua, relajantes paseos en ferry acompañados de cervezas foráneas y contemplandolos bellísimos atardeceres sobre el agua.
Y los días habían volado en un suspiro.Llegábamos a la etapa final de nuestro viaje: Victoria Falls, entre Zimbabwe y Zambia, el "humo que truena", una de las grandes maravillas del mundo, donde vive el arco iris para siempre.
Algunos nos atrevimos incluso a vivir un osado rafting por los peligrosos rápidos creados por la fuerza avasalladora de las cataratas. Otros pasearon maravillados entre leones o montaron sobrecogidos en gigantescos elefantes africanos.
Y un día finalmente abandonamos África, con el alma mojada por la fina lluvia del agua con nombre victoriano, tocados por el color rojizo de las dunas y el aroma del arcilla himba, el caminar a cámara lenta de los elefantes, la tímida gracia de las gacelas, la mirada inteligente de los guepardos y el asombroso poder de los atardeceres africanos. El regreso se hizo ya imprescindible.
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